Instuctional phile Topic ..................... Opening locked objects Author .................... Compilation phrom several sources Compiler .................. Nocturnal Phoenix This is one of a series of compilations I am creating of the various techniques used to perphorm actions that aught not be perphormed (but will be done anyway, so why not do it right?). I am expecting to have maybe ten or so of these compilations by the time I am done. I realized the need phor some phorm of organization of this sort of inphormation when I came across phour meg of shit like this. Out of that phour meg, two meg was totaly redundant, one meg was corrupted to the point of not being able to read it, and of the other meg, everything that was actually usephul was scattered everywhere in bits and pieces. Now I personally am a strong proponant of peacephul world Anarchy, but I would really rather not try to make something phun like nitroglycerin (to use something extremely dangerous that I saw phrequently in all that shit) without having a complete set of instructions. Whenever it was possible, I have given credit to the author of the original article, although I phound many articles which were the same, word phor word, but with dipherent authors, phorcing me to chose one of them. Sorry if I chose wrong. The compiler of this phile apologizes to the authors of the articles within phor any alterations done to their documents. This was unavoidable, as most of these texts were nearly unreadable by the time I got them. I assume this is due to various changes made by people who had been in possesion of them bephore me, and to the slow corruption of the data as it was sent over innumerable fone lines phrom modem to modem. To avoid the phurther corruption of this very usephul inphormation, I would ask two things: 1. That any comments, notes, additions, etc. be placed at the very end of this phile, not just stuck wherever you pheel like it. I have put a sample addition in at the end of this file for convenience. Please leave: - Your name (your phake name that would be used phor BBS' and such, not your real name) - The date - Where you can be reached (BBS' etc.) - The inphormation you wish to leave 2. That any random corruptions phound while reading (such as the word "LOCKPICK" appearing as "LO´KPICK") are phixed (I'm sure that some smartass will be tempted to phix the example I have just given. Please don't). Thank you phor your cooperation in this matter. Please give this phile to whoever you can, knowing that it will probably have grown substantially by the next time you phind it. Also, when you do phind it again, and it is a newer version than you have, delete the older version and only distribute the newer one. - Nocturnal Phoenix ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The BHU While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene. Automobiles: Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night" by John Russell III); however many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So: American Locksmith Service P.O. Box 26 Culver City CA 90230 ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling. Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So: Lock Technology Corporation 685 Main St. New Rochelle NY 10801 LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling. The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by: Steck MFG Corporation 1319 W. Stewart St. Dayton OH 45408 For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around. Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So: A MFG 1151 Wallace St. Massilon OH 44646 Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool. If you are too lazy to pick auto locks: Veehof Supply Box 361 Storm Lake IO 50588 VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set. Updated Lockpicking: For years there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows: Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins one by one until the shear line is set and the lock opens. Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking if successful can be much less of an effort than standard picking. Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun" and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful but when it does work the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger. Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly. There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by: Fed Corporation P.O. Box 569 Scottsdale AR 85252 The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries teflon bearings (for less noise) and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including government high security and medecos) although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidear locks although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds? $235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling. For you hard core safe crackers FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10 000 for the three wheel attack model and $10 500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor disk drive and software. If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance... The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar and is available from: C.O.L. MFG 7748 W. Addison Chicago IL 60634 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The BHU So you want to be a criminal. Well if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds then go to Hollywood because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock since it is the easiest to pick. First of all you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file but it takes forever). The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90 degrees). Now take your pick to a grinder or a file and smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time one above the other. In the coming instructions please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock: ______________________________ \ K | | | | | | / E | | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin / H [!] Lower tumbler pin ! ! \ O [-] Cylinder wall ! ! ! ! ! ! / L (This is a greatly simplified \ E drawing) ______________________________/ The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now if you push a pin up it's tendency is to fall back down right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now work from the back of the lock to the front and when you are through there will be a click the screwdriver will turn freely and the door will open. Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that you will quickly improve with practice. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} The writer of this text file takes responsibility for what {=--=} {=--=} this text file is used for. Hopefully it will only be used for {=--=} {=--=} illegal purposes cuz i can't think of a reason it can be used for{=--=} {=--=} legally. Well, on with the text file. {=--=} {=--=} {=--=} {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=} Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it. To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you usually (that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling). Once you have your hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there aren't that many that could. And when i say pick, i don't mean lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using force, making a substitute key, etc... If any of you believe that this information is not sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at /\/\etalland 1 (503) 538-0761. This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks". See ya later. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ ][ BROUGHT TO YOU BY ][ ][ COMPUTER PIRATES OF UTAH ][ ][ COURTESY OF THE SAFEHOUSE ][ ][ (801)-264-8201 ][ ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] [+] [+] [+] L O C K P I C K I N G [+] [+] [+] [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] [+] [+] [+] WRITTEN BY: DARC DEATHE [+] [+] [+] [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] THIS TUTORIAL WILL DEMONSTRATE HOW TO "PICK" A PIN TUMBLER LOCK. USE OF THIS MATERIAL IS FOR LOCKSMITHS ONLY, ANY USE OF THIS INFORMATION FOR ILLEGAL PURPOSES IS FORBIDDEN AND AGAINST THE LAW. (AS LONG AS WE ARE AT IT, DO YOU WANT TO BUY SOME LAND IN FLORIDA?) IN ORDER TO PICK A PIN TUMBLER LOCK, YOU WILL REQUIRE FOUR ITEMS: A LOCK, YOU, A PICK, AND A TENSION WRENCH. YOU CAN USSUALLY GET THESE AT A LOCKSMITH STORE, IF YOU CAN NOT FIND ONE NEAR YOU THERE WILL BE AN ADDRESS AT THE END OF THE ARTICLE THAT YOU CAN ORDER THEM FROM. HERE IS AN ILLUSTRATION OF A PICK AND A TENSION WRENCH: ________/ !________ PICK TENSION WRENCH MOST PEOPLE KNOW OF THE NEED FOR THE PICK, BUT HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE WRENCH IS FOR. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT AND WITH- OUT IT IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO PICK A LOCK. IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK, WE MUST COUNT UPON THE IMPERFECTION OF THE LOCK. BEFORE WE LOOK AT HOW TO ACTUALLY PICK THE LOCK, WE WILL LOOK AT THE PARTS OF IT AND HOW THE IMPERFECTION PART FITS IN. HERE IS A DISSASSEMBLED LOCK: / / / / \ \ \ \ SPRINGS -> / / / / \ \ \ \ _ _ _ _ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! DRIVERS ->! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !_! !_! !_! !_! _ _ ! ! _ ! ! BOTTOM PINS ->! ! ! ! _ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ _____________________ ! : : : : : : : : ! HOUSING ->! : : : : : : : : ! ! : : : : : : : : ! !___: :_: :_: :_: :___! ! : : : : : : : : ! PLUG ->! : : : : : : : : ! !______________________! ! ! ! ! ! ! !_____________________! ___ / \ ! !__ _ _ ! \__ / \_/ \__ ! \/ \ \__/------------------- <- KEY WHEN YOU INSERT A KEY INTO A LOCK, THE BOTTEM PINS ARE PUSHED UP, AND IF IT IS THE PROPER KEY, THE TOPS OF THE BOTTOM PINS WILL MATCH WITH THE SPOT WHERE THE PLUG AND HOUSING MEET, THUS ALLOWING YOU TO TURN THE PLUG, AND OPEN THE DOOR, ETC.. WHEN YOU INSER THE KEY, THE BOTTOM PINS GO INTO THE VALLEYS OF THE KEY, THUS MEANING THAT THE KEY MUST HAVE THE RIGHT HEIGHT VALLEYS TO MAKE THE LOCK OPEN. PRETTY ELEMENTRY, RIGHT? WELL NOW WE CAN MOVE ON TO HOW TO PICK A LOCK. IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK WE (AS I SAID BEFORE) DEPEND ON THE INACCURACY OF THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS. THE FIRST THING TO DO IS TO INSERT THE TENSION WRENCH INTO THE LOCK AND APPLY A SLIGHT PRESSURE TO THE LEFT (OR RIGHT IF YOU WISH) SO THAT IF YOU COULD LOOK INSIDE THE LOCK AT WHERE THE PLUG AND THE HOUSING WOULD MEET, IT WOULD LOOK LIKE THIS: ! !*! ! HOUSING ! !*! ! ! !*! ! __________! !*! !___________ __________ !*! ____________ ! !*!! PLUG ! !_!! ! _ ! ! !*!! ! \_/! NOW A SLIGHT PRESURE IS ON THE PINS. BECAUSE THE PINS CAN NOT BE PRODUCED EXACTLY THE SAME, THERE IS ONE PIN WHICH IS THE WIDEST AND THERE FORE HAS MORE TENSION ON IT, AND ONE WHICH IS THE THINNEST AND HAS ALMOST NO PRESSURE ON IT. WE NOW USE THE PICK TO >GENTLY< PUSH EACH PIN UP (AND TRY TO FEEL IT WHEN YOU LET IT DOWN) UNTIL WE FIND WHICH IS THE TIGHTEST ON AND WHICH IS LOOSEST. GETTING THE FEEL FOR THIS IS THE HARDEST PART OF LOCK PICKING. NOW THAT YOU HAVE FOUND THE LOOSEST ONE, GENTLY PRESS IT UPWARD UNTIL YOU FEEL A SLIGHT REDUCTION IN TENSION ON THE TENSION WRENCH. THIS WILL HAPPEN WHEN THE TOP OF THE BOTTOM PIN BECOMES EVEN WITH THE JUNCTION OF THE PLUG AND THE HOUSING. DO NOT RELEASE ANY TENSION FROM THE WRENCH NOW! THE DRIVER WILL NOW BE TRAPPED IN THE HOUSING AS ILLUSTRATED HERE: (DON'T I DRAW PRETTY) ! !*! ! HOUSING ! !*! ! ! !*! ! ___________! !_! !___________ _______________ ___________ ! !*! ! PLUG ! !*! ! ! \_/ ! ! ! NOW YOU CONTINUE THIS PROCESS WITH EACH OF THE PINS UNTIL YOU WORK YOUR WAY UP TO THE ONE THAT IS WIDEST. WITH SOME PRACTICE YOU CAN GET FAIRLY FAST AT THIS. I SUGGEST PRACTICING ON A FOUR PIN TUMBLER LOCK THAT IS BOUGHT FROM A HARDWARE STORE, THE CHEAPER THE BETTER. I WOULD LIKE TO DISCUSS A PATICULAR CONFIGURATION OF THE PINS NOW THAT MAY PRESENT A PARTICULARLY HARD JOB TO PICK. THIS IS GRAPHICLY SHOWN HERE BY THE TWO MIDDLE PINS: !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !_! !*! !*! !*! _ !*! !_! !*! !*! !_! _ !*! !*! _ !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !_! !*! !*! !*! _ !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! !*! \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_______________ WHEN YOU TRY TO PUSH THE 2ND PIN FROM THE LEFT UP, YOU WILL UNAVOIDABLY BE PUSHING THE ONE IN FRONT OF IT UP BE- CAUSE OF IT'S LONG BOTTOM PIN. THE ONLY SOLUTION FOR THIS IS TO GET A SPECIAL PICK THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS: \ \ _______________ \_/ THE MAJOR PROBLEM WITH THIS IS THAT IT IS HARD TO INITIALLY DETECT. THE REASON THAT IT MAKES IT HARDER IF IT IS NOT IMMEDIETLY APPERANT IS THAT YOU UN- AVOIDABLY PUSH THE 3RD PIN FROM THE LEFT UP INTO THE HOUSING, GETTING IT JAMMED: ! !*! ! HOUSING ! !_! ! ! _ ! ! !*! ! __________! !*! !________ ___________ !*! ________ !!*!! PLUG !!*!! !\_/! I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO ADDRESS A TECHNIQUE CALLED RAKING. IT USES A TOOL LIKE THIS: \/\/\/\___________ BASICLY YOU "RAKE" IT BACK AND FORTH ACROSS THE PINS, HOPING THAT COMBINED WITH THE TENSION IT WILL GIVE YOU THE RIGHT COMBINATION. THIS WAY HAS BEEN KNOWN: FAST SOMETIMES, BUT IS NOT VERY RELIABLE, AND I WOULD SUGGEST LEARNING TO ACTUALLY "PICK" THE LOCK. EARLIER I PROMISED AN ADDRESS TO ORDER LOCKSMITHING MATERIALS FROM, SO HERE IT IS: GARRISON PROTECTIVE ELECTRONICS BOX 128 KEW GARDENS, NEW YORK, 11415 SOURCES: PERSONAL PRACTICE AND MANY EXCELLENT BOOKS FROM MENTOR PRESS, IF YOU WOULD LIKE THEIR CATALOG, SEND A SASE TO: THE INTELLIGENCE LIBRARY MENTOR PULICATIONS 135-53 NORTHERN BLVD. FLUSHING, NY 11354 AND ASK FOR ANY INFORMATION AVAILABLE ON THE INTELLIGENCE LIBRARY. THIS CONCLUDES OUR EXTRAORDINAIRELY GRAPHIC ARTICLE ON LOCK PICKING. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, LEAVE E-MAIL FOR DARC DEATHE ON MOST NATIONAL BBS'S. Edited by : Quasimoto ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ ]] LOCK PICKING [[ ]] BY [[ ]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[ ]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[ SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK ELSEWHERE. THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE "LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT. FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE. IF YOU CAN'T FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE. IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER (YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.) THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.) IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS: #1 \\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE \\\ THAT WAS ALREADY \\\ (HERE.) \\\ \\\ \\\ NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END (#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER? LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT. IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE INTERIOR OF A LOCK: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K # # # # # # | E # # # # | Y * * | H * * * * * * | O | L | E XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| #= UPPER TUMLER PIN *= LOWER TUMLER PIN X= CYLINDER WALL (THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING) THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW, IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ? THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE. THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE. IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ /----------------------------------------------------------------------------\ | Count Lazlo Hollifeld Nibble Presents: | | Mister Shim(TM) - Your Briefcase-Opening Pal | | A Countlegger Volume Seven World Premiere Textfile | \----------------------------------------------------------------------------/ Here's a toy that will have limited use for most people now, but which might encourage a bit more sneakiness in the future. It's a simple device that allows you to quickly and silently open, with no injury to yourself or the target, virtually any briefcase that uses a combination lock as its sole security measure. ___________________| |_ This is the kind of lock to which I refer. | ___ _ _ _ | | | It's used primarily on your cheaper-style || | |-| |-| |-| | | | attache cases, popular among yuppies and ||___| |-| |-| |-| |____| | other wimpy neo-rich types -- maybe including |__________________________| that nerdy kid in your homeroom with the ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ hornrim glasses and the pencil case in his Slide Combo Dials Hasp shirt pocket. You never know what he might have hidden in there . . . like a nice HP calculator (which he never uses -- he extracts cube roots in his head) or his lunchmoney. Now you can find out without him knowing. Just snatch the case fromhis locker, where he keeps it during Gym period, and be sure to put it back before he returns. (And if you don't know how to get into his locker, checkout the Master Lock file in PHRACK issue #1.) ------------------------ Building Mister Shim(TM) ------------------------ You'll need a thin piece of metal about 2cm by 3cm. (We're using metric here, guys. So sue me.) In the one I made I used a piece cut from an aluminum Coke can and it worked fine. Out of the 2cm end, cut it to look like the diagram below (which I wish could be less confusing . . . just look at it carefully). / - - - - 12mm - - - - \ |_______ _______| _ _ _ | aluminum | | 2mm 1mm| _ |____/\____ ____/\____| _ _ _ _ _ _|_ . .. \/_ _ .._ _ . _ _ _ _ _ _ _| 1mm 2mm wide:____::____::____::____: about 1.3mm wide ^^ ^^ ^^ (To SCALE? Are you KIDDING?) It looks tough, but really isn't . . . use a very sharp exacto knife to cut out the two corners first, then a fine trangular metal file to smooth it and file out the small indentations. It'll take about ten to fifteen minutes if you do it carefully, and it does NOT have to be EXACT . . . just get it as close as you can. It helps to have one of those locks nearby to fine-tune the shim. Simply set the lock to its correct combiation and insert Mister Shim(TM) as described below. If it works as described, your shim is properly designed. --------------------- UsingMister Shim(TM) --------------------- The guy who designed this particular type of lock knew that he'd have to install some sort of "back door" in it, for all those airheads who would change the numbers on their locks and then forget them, or in case Random Briefcase Vandals assaulted the luggage store, raping, pillaging, and changing combinations as they went. This is that back door. Use is simple. Slide the modified end of Mister Shim(TM) into the gap right up to the dial on the lock. (Try both sides, it varies from lock to lock.) If Mister Shim(TM) goes in ALL THE WAY with a little jiggling, the number shown on the dial is correct. If not, turn to the next number and try again. On a three-dial lock, it will take an average of only fifteen checks to find the proper combination; on a two-lock case with a practiced operator, this adds up to LESS THAN A MINUTE to open the case. You can now access anything inside the case you like, or change the combination if you wish. (To change the combination, push the slide towards the hasp [see first diagram] and hold it, then turn the dials to the desired new combo. Your victim will have to go to someone with their own Mister Shim(TM) -- or destroy the lock -- if they ever want to get into their briefcase again.) UseMisterShim(TM) in good health. DISCLAIMER: Certain applications of Mister Shim(TM) may be illegal in some areas. Consult your attorney. Mister Shim(TM) is not intended for internal or topical use. Keep away from cuts or open sores. And remember, this is just an amusement, not a competition. Please . . . no wagering. Call Terrapin Station -- 505/865-0883 -- pw:CICADA -- 300/1200 -- 24 hours! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: P/HUN Issue #2 , Volume 1 Phile #5 of 9 Third Party Payphones By: The Jedi There's been a lot of discussion lately about paperclipping and redboxing on payphones so I decided to write up an article about that subject to be included in this issue of PHUN. Here are a few things that you'd might find interesting about payphones.... NOTE: All the payphones discussed in this article refer to Non-New York Telephone PayPhones. There are plenty of third party payphones in New York. The easiest way to tell if the payphone is from New York Tel is to look right under the keypad where is says what numbers to dial for information. All New York Payphones will have their Logo printed somewhere on that label. If it isn't New York Tel, there will be a company name and number listed to call for refunds. Thats the company that owns and operates that perticular payphone. Get the Coin Box! Not that easy but one of my friends managed to bring home a parking meter so it IS possible!! Theres two locks you must get past in order to get to the coin box. First, get a piece of metal and make the following..... ___ __| |__ |__ __|<===-- about 1/4 of an inch | | ________| |________ / X | | X___________________/ This key will allow you to get past the lock in the front of the payphone. Ok, pick the lock on the bottom left-hand side of the payphone [or drill a hole in it] and then put that key in the front lock and turn it clockwise [to the right for those of you that can't tell time! heh]. Pull out the coin box and go and play 2000 video games!! Each coin box holds up to a maximum of $150-175 dollars. ---===>>THE JEDI<<===--- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: P/HUN Issue #3 , Volume 2 Phile #11 of 11 Lockpicking: An Indepth Guide By: The LockSmith LOCK PICKING You can call, or write, or if you can find a local locksmith supply house, they may have copies available. Note that the drawings, allthough detailed, are smaller than the actual tools, but the size tends to be obvious. NOTE: The correct size of a HPC pick handle is about 3 and 1/8 inches long. If you have the the HPC drawings enlarged at a copy shop to just under 3x then they will be of a useable size(If they can't do odd size enlargements, 3x should be close enough. MATERAL: Many materials are suitable for making picking tools/tension tools. Gutter broom bristles(those *BIG* trucks with the rotary brushes that wash and sweep the street at the same time). Look for the bristles after the truck leaves...generally at least a few break off...it is preferable to look near an irregular spot of the road, as this tends to induce bristle breakage. Also, depending on your area, you may find that smaller trucks are used along with the larger ones...these generally use thinner bristles, which make better picks, but many times, the thicker type makes better tension wrenches. NOTE: A Package of strips/round strips of spring steel can be obtained from a locksmith supply house, but you will pay at least $18.00 for this! NOTE: If you *really* have to buy the tools there are 3 ways to go... 1. Try to order them through the mail..allthough the feds have been trying to pass a bill prohibiting mailing picks, and door opening tools, unless you can prove you are a bona-fide locksmith(not as hard as you might think)..THIS BILL HAS NOT PASSED AS OF YET. Also, the last time I checked am issue of HIGH TIMES, there was a small advertisment in the back, and they had a pick set(for about twice the price as the item's standard retail price. 2. Try to work for a store/shop that has a locksmiths license(*NOT* a keymakers license). Sooner or later they will ask you to pick up supplies..if the supplier has what you need, then you can add the items to the order. 3. try and make friends with a locksmith..he can get you tools. TOOLS REQUIRED: If you are trying to make your own picks these tools are a good start... 1. A set of warding files(these are often available in the tool department of large discount stores...For example, for people in NYC, a chain of stores called Webers tends to have these at a good price. While you can buy a set from a locksmith supply house, you will pay at least $20.00-$30.00 for a small set. The discount store ones are generally $3.00-$5.00 a set. While the quality is a bit lower, at least from my experience they do the job ok. 2. A small propane or butane torch (if butane, one that can be refilled with a can of cigarette lighter butane will be a lot cheaper to operate. Note: a gas (but NOT a electric) kitchen stove burner will often do in a pinch. HOW TO MAKE TOOLS: First, let's assume that you are starting with gutter broom bristles, as they are generally easy to get, and cost nothing. First, let's start with a tension wrench... Take a piece about 4-5 inches long, and make a sharp bend 1/4-1/2 inch from the end, but DON'T make the bend so sharp that the strip cracks. If you want to make a sharp bend, heat the strip at the point that you want to bend to red heat and let it AIR COOL. Do not cool in fluid, as this will make the metal harder! After, if you want to reharden it, reheat, and plunge it into either oil or water (oil is better). If this results in the metal getting too hard, then try cooling it a little slower. A book on metal working may be useful. Also, if you want to make a complicated bend (a half twist, for example) then heating the strip at the bend point will allow easy bending (this is one of those times where a kitchen gas stove probably will not quite make it. PICKS: You need pictures or drawings, preferably full size. Once you have these, select a piece of metal, soften about 2-3 inches using a torch or gas burner, then get out your warding files and get to it! NOTE: While in theory, you probably could file the strips without softening them first, the metal is hardened, and resists being filed (this is also rough on the files). What may help, whether you soften or not, is that a metal nibbling tool can used for the rough shaping, and in some cases, can be used to do most of the work. However you do it, it may be advisable to file the 2 flat sides of the tool(just a bit). USE OF TOOLS: The use of lockpicking tools is as much an art as it is a skill, but most persons with enough practice can learn to do a decient job. A good book on the subject comes from HPC(again)(Basic Picking and Raking. This runs around $15.00), this is a bit overpriced, but a good guide. But, let's go on...... HAND PICKS: There are 4 different types of picks: The rake The hook(this has other names as well) The diamond The ball/double ball (2 balls stacked) THE RAKE: The rake is prehaps the easiest tool to use, but it does not teach you much about the lock you are working on; if this does not matter to you, then don't worry about it. Hold the cylinder or padlock in a upright position (the way it normally be mounted). The pins should be on the top. Hold the pick with the more prominent wiggly side up (the hollow side down). Tilt the back of the handle downward a bit;the wiggly part should be horizontal. Now put it down for a minute, and pick up a tension wrench (L shaped piece), and insert the shorter bent end into the bottom of the keyway. Now... Rotate the wrench in the direction that the lock normally rotates to open - if not sure, pick a direction. Then... hold the pick so that the handle is angled towards you slightly. at this angle the curved part should be horizontal. Insert the pick into the lock all of the way into the keyway, and making sure that contact is attained with the pins. Draw it out..repeat until lock is open. But... don't push the pins up by forcing the pick upward with great force... not only will this not open the lock, but you will bend the pick as well. If it does not open: Release the tension (you should hear the pins drop). 1. Try less (or more) tension on the tension wrench (NOTE: most problems are caused by too much tension). 2. Try holding the pick at a slightly different angle and/or height. 3. Try picking the lock in the other direction. THE HOOK: The hook is used to lift individual pins in a cylinder. The tension wrench is inserted and rotated the same way as above. After putting tension on the wrench, insert the hook into the keyway with the hook upward. Then, starting from the rearmost pins, lift each pin. To do this, Lift the pin until you feel a bump, or a "click", or a change in the spring action of the pin then STOP and go to the next pin. Continue this until the lock opens. If it does not open, release the tension then: 1. Try with more or less tension (NOTE:usually the problem is too much tension, so try lowering it first). 2. Try starting from the front pins, instead of the back ones. 3. Try picking the lock in the other direction. THE DIAMOND: This tool is used the same way as the rake, as it is a modified rake design, although it does not look the same. THE BALL/DOUBLE BALL: These tools are mainly used for picking wafer tumbler locks. They are used the same way as the rake, except these locks open *so* easily, that you probably won't have to worry about the lock not opening. NOTE: these locks can often be open in a pinch by using a bent paper clip (rake the wafers and rotate the clip at the same time) PICK GUNS: The most difficult part about using a pick gun is not using it, but getting the damm thing in the first place. They are available from most of the same places that hand picks are sold, but unlike hand picks, are not readily made at home (The best one, at least in my opinion, is the LOCKAID. This pick is made by a company called majestic. It is made very well, has an ajustable strike force dial, and has a LIFETIME warranty!). Well, let's assume you have one of these tools... The first thing is to get a lock (a small padlock is a good practice item). Then... 1. insert the tension wrench at the bottom of the keyway, and rotate it in the direction that the lock opens. 2. starting with the pick gun's tension dial set either to 0 or 1 (0=the point that the dial will go no lower, 1 = 1 full turn in the opposite direction), take the pick gun and insert it's needle into the keyway, but try not to insert it beyond the pins, as the needle may bind. Holding the tool horizontal, squeeze the trigger. Do this 6-8 times, if no results then release the tension (on the cylinder), raise the pick gun's tension dial 1 full turn, and try to open the lock again. Keep trying until you get it open. TUBULAR LOCK PICKS: The best guide to using a tubular lock pick, is the instructions that come with it. However, as these may not be available, these general notes will get you started. Also HPC has a tutorial on using tubular lock picks (Basic Picking and Servicing Tubular Locks) (a bit costly, but if it is as good as other HPC tutorials I've seen, it may be worth it). 1. Take the pick and slide the feelers (the moveable tines) back and forth a few times. Slide all of them (usually 7) out past the end of the tool a bit (maybe 1/8th of a inch or so). Then press the tool aginst a hard surface until all of the feelers are flush with the end of the tool. 2. Insert the tool into the front of the lock and gently push it all of the way into the lock. Then rotate the tool in the direction required for opening, but use a minimum of force, as excessive force will cause 2 difficulties: 1. The front of the pick may be damaged. 2. The lock may not be able to be open at all, or if it can it may be damaged. After rotating the pick, slowly pump it in and out of the lock but note that the pick should only be backed out about 1/8 inch or so. Keep doing this. Eventually the lock should open. If not...start again from the start. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From : The Terrorist's Handbook TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS If it becomes necessary to pick a lock, the world's most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are, unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks. These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket-knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged ends. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the strips in 1/4 inch increments. One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this: _______________________________________________________ |_______________________________________________________| 1/4 in |_______________________________________________________| 1/4 in |_______________________________________________________| 1/4 in |_______________________________________________________| 1/4 in Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that looks like this: ________________________________________ /________________________________________| | | | | L-shaped | | | | |_| _____________________________ / ___________________________| | | | | J-shaped | | | |________ \________| _____________________ / ___________________| | | | | | | U-shaped | | | |____________________ \____________________| All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made properly. Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position horizontally across the frame in the vicinty of the latch, and jack it out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of forced entry. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Picking Master Locks by Gin Fizz & Ninja NYC Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake. The first number: Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right) turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination. The second number: Spin the dial around a couple of times then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose go to the next groove if the knob is stiff you have the second number of the combination. The third number: After getting the second number spin the dial then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right and at each number pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right. This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Picking MASTER warded padlock These are the locks with the keys that look like this: _ _ / \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \ \_/ [] [] [] [] Just file the key down so it looks like this: _ _ / \___________[] A cross section looks like this: ~~~~~ \_/ [] Now you can bypass the wards... sometimes you have to pull the key up and down, turning as you pass each block, to release the latch. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From : The Pyrotechnics Cookbook Make a jimmey and pick the lock and then steal the stereo... I'll try to draw a picture... cut one of those thin metal rules in the pattern given below: ____________________________________________________ ____ \__\ ! \ \--\ / ---------------------------------------------------- ---- The important part are the notches on the sides which are used to pull up on the cable which pulls up the lock! Get s stereos, equilizers, radar detectors, car guns, and then destroy the inside (A knife is handy for the seat.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Name - Nocturnal Phoenix Date - October 25, 1992 I can be reached on GENERIC BBS, (555)-555-5555, 1200/9600 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------